Monday, April 28, 2008
Sunday, April 27, 2008
INTERIOR DESIGN SERVICES
Decorfin recently completed a residential installation of a marble-like traditional Venetian plaster treatment, featuring a metallic gold layer for added depth and glamour. This textured Venetian plaster is available in any custom color imaginable to suit your décor.
Elegant. Strikingly beautiful. Warm and inviting. Rustically charming. Whatever effect you’re looking for, Venetian Plaster can completely transform your home or apartment in a way nothing else can. DécorFin USA provides superb interior design services to help you envision and realize all the possibilities your space holds. Browse through our portfolio below and get to know some of the artists and professionals that can make your design dreams come true.
FEATURED INTERIOR DESIGNERS
At DécorFin USA we engage only the most respected, artistically accomplished and innovative interior designers working in the field today. Stellar experience, impeccable reputation and creative vision set our designers apart and the results they achieve are absolutely remarkable.
Each unique project begins with an initial consultation. Our designers meet with you to determine your style and design goals – while keeping in mind the specific space into which they’ll bring your synthesized vision. Then they present you with concept boards that reflect your taste and provide a visual reference for you as you approach the look and feel you want. Once final approval is reached and installation begins, you will be amazed at how transformative our designers’ input can be.
Our continually expanding list of satisfied clients is a testament to how effective interior design, executed by the professionals engaged by DécorFin USA, can take a project from ‘good’ to ‘stunning’. Contact us for a consultation and see how the designer’s eye can transform your home.
Monday, April 21, 2008
How to Create a Good Interior Design
- Creating a good interior design layout is much more than just selecting the right furniture and colors that go well together for a home or office. The overall mood and comfort level you want for each room of the project have to be taken into consideration. Small but subtle elements including curtains, lighting, and the art work you place on the wall can all change the feel of a room. Creating a good interior design means transforming the entire feel of the room with the different objects you place in it.
- ImageThe ability of an interior designer to be able to manipulate the mood of a given room is amazing. They can transform it from one that is loud and colorful to one that is quiet and inviting. They can also transform a simple room into one that has plenty of flare and appeal with some good focal points.
- Creating a good interior design involves starting with the outside dimensions. This way you know what you have to work with. This is important because you can change anything you want about the interior design but in the majority of situations you are stuck with the space you have to work with. This includes both the size and the shape of the area.
- A good interior design project involves knowing how different colors work well together. It takes lots of creativity and a willingness to try new things. If you are completing the interior design project for someone else you need to take their interests into consideration. You also want to find out how they will be using the room so you can give it a feel that works well for that use.
- It is harder to create a good interior design project for someone else than for ourselves. This is because it is easy to let our own interests be a part of the creative process. Successful interior designers are able to remove that element from the designs they come up with. It does take time to be able to do that so don’t be surprised if you have to carefully scrutinize your interior design plans initially.
Sunday, April 20, 2008
Living & Dining Area Tips
● In interior design, a focal point is important in every room. It could be a large window or painting or an interesting art piece. In your living room, arrange your furniture around a focal point. Put your biggest piece of furniture first (like the sofa) then continue with the smaller pieces of furniture down to your accent pieces.
● Consider the size of your living room when you buy the furniture. Don't buy oversized pieces if your room is not that big. It will make your room smaller and cramped. And also don't buy tall furniture if your ceiling is low, they will make the ceiling appear lower.
● Many of us Filipinos tend to buy living room furniture "sets" with a sofa, two matching side chairs, with matching coffee and side tables. Be different, don't match the couch with the side chairs. In fact, in interior design, it is more fashionable to have different styled pieces put together like a modern sofa with classic or antique side chairs and different styled tables.
● If you plan to put several picture frames on the walls. it is a good idea to group them together by theme and arrange them inside an imaginary frame. They can be the focal point of the room.
● Consider the size of your living room when you buy the furniture. Don't buy oversized pieces if your room is not that big. It will make your room smaller and cramped. And also don't buy tall furniture if your ceiling is low, they will make the ceiling appear lower.
● Many of us Filipinos tend to buy living room furniture "sets" with a sofa, two matching side chairs, with matching coffee and side tables. Be different, don't match the couch with the side chairs. In fact, in interior design, it is more fashionable to have different styled pieces put together like a modern sofa with classic or antique side chairs and different styled tables.
● If you plan to put several picture frames on the walls. it is a good idea to group them together by theme and arrange them inside an imaginary frame. They can be the focal point of the room.
● Before you buy you dining room set, take a good look at your space. Be sure that there is ample room to walk around the dining set even if all the seats are occupied. Interior design has a lot to do with ergonometrics, not just appearance. We Filipinos have the tendency to buy bigger dining sets than our space can accommodate and push one side of the table against the wall.
● If your living and dining area is on the same room, you may use a different flooring material on the dining area to delineate the space from the living area. Or you may put an area rug on your dining area for definition. A free standing screen is another good option.
● Avoid using fluorescent (white) lighting in the living and dining areas. Food looks more inviting under incandescent (yellow) light and people's complexion too look better under yellow light. But if you really like to use fluorescent light, combine both white & yellow light at the same time.
● If you plan to put a chandelier above your dinning table, don't put it up so high. Lower it 3 to 4 feet from the table top.
● Aside from your direct light source above the dining table (a chandelier for example), add some pin lights around the room and a dimmer switch to make your surroundings more pleasing to the eye. Do the same with your living room.
● It is ok to put family pictures on the living room but don't put so many, specially school diplomas and trophies. They are better put in the den or your bedroom.
● If your living and dining area is on the same room, you may use a different flooring material on the dining area to delineate the space from the living area. Or you may put an area rug on your dining area for definition. A free standing screen is another good option.
● Avoid using fluorescent (white) lighting in the living and dining areas. Food looks more inviting under incandescent (yellow) light and people's complexion too look better under yellow light. But if you really like to use fluorescent light, combine both white & yellow light at the same time.
● If you plan to put a chandelier above your dinning table, don't put it up so high. Lower it 3 to 4 feet from the table top.
● Aside from your direct light source above the dining table (a chandelier for example), add some pin lights around the room and a dimmer switch to make your surroundings more pleasing to the eye. Do the same with your living room.
● It is ok to put family pictures on the living room but don't put so many, specially school diplomas and trophies. They are better put in the den or your bedroom.
AutoCad Download
AutoCad Download
AutoCAD is a CAD software application for 2D and 3D design and drafting, developed and sold by Autodesk, Inc. Initially released in late 1982, AutoCAD was one of the first CAD programs to run on personal computers, and notably the IBM PC. Most CAD software at the time ran on graphics terminals connected to mainframe computers or mini-computers.
In earlier releases, AutoCAD used primitive entities — such as lines, polylines, circles, arcs, and text — as the foundation for more complex objects. Since the mid-1990s, AutoCAD has supported custom objects through its C++ API. Modern AutoCAD includes a full set of basic solid modeling and 3D tools, but lacks some of the more advanced capabilities of solid modeling applications.
AutoCAD supports a number of application programming interfaces (APIs) for customization and automation. These include AutoLISP, Visual LISP, VBA, .NET and ObjectARX. ObjectARX is a C++ class library, which was also the base for products extending AutoCAD functionality to specific fields, to create products such as AutoCAD Architecture, AutoCAD Electrical, AutoCAD Civil 3D, or third-party AutoCAD-based applications.
AutoCAD's native file format, DWG, and to a lesser extent, its interchange file format, DXF, have become de facto standards for CAD data interoperability. AutoCAD in recent years has included support for DWF, a format developed and promoted by Autodesk for publishing CAD data. In 2006, Autodesk estimated the number of active DWG files to be in excess of one billion. In the past, Autodesk has estimated the total number of DWG files in existence to be more than three billion.
AutoCAD currently runs exclusively on Microsoft desktop operating systems. Versions for Unix and Macintosh were released in the 1980s and 1990s, but these were later dropped. AutoCAD can run on an emulator or compatibility layer like Virtual PC or Wine, keeping in mind the performance issues that can arise when working with 3D objects or large drawings.
AutoCAD and AutoCAD LT are available for German, French, Italian, Spanish, Japanese, Korean, Chinese Simplified (No LT), Chinese Traditional, Russian, Czech, Polish, Hungarian (No LT), Brazilian Portuguese (No LT), Danish, Dutch, Swedish, Finnish, Norwegian and Vietnamese. The extent of localization varies from full translation of the product to documentation only.
Download Here
How to Patch a Wall
1. Walls can have various types of problems, from pin holes and cracks to large break outs, to texture you don't want. Small things such as nail holes can be repaired with spackle, 'Dap 33' oil base window glaze, or tape & joint compound can also be used. Cracks between molding and trim can be filled with paintable caulk.
2. Most all repair jobs not done with spackle can be done with 'All Purpose Tape and Joint Compound' and 'Topping', both called 'mud', recommending USG or US Gypsum. Mud is usually held in a 'California Cake Pan' or small rectangular box about 4 x 12". Joint paper tape is used for all repairs. Never use mesh, as it is mostly air and will often crack. A roll of tape soaked in water is easiest for amateurs, sticks and flattens better, and is thinner the longer it is soaked. However it is more messy. Mud is applied in a straight line for the length of tape used, with preferably a 9 inch topping blade used for all operations. The tape is pressed into the mud completely flat and the excess is scraped off. This can be allowed to dry or a second coat can be applied immediately, so as to cover the tape.
3. This coat can be from 6 to 12 inches wide or wider. This then is allowed to dry overnight and usually a third coat of Topping is put over that. Tape can be of any length and should be overlapped about an inch when put together. All Purpose is structural, hard, shrinks and is more difficult to sand. Topping is finish, soft, doesn't shrink as much and is easy to sand, with 120 grit or sponge smooth. Sanding is best under enamel. Sponging raises no dust, but can show messy under enamel, but often good enough under flat latex.
4. Holes the size of a golf ball and smaller can be backed with some tight fitting plug or glued, something thin like can lid or simply taped over. Any rise caused by the patch can be feathered out with plaster, 12 or more inches all round. A patch is always taped over. Large holes are usually repaired with sheetrock of same thickness as what's there or thinner. For sheetrock walls: with a 'sheetrock saw' cut up and across and down & across to the stud in both directions. Cut down along the stud and remove sheetrock. With a razor-knife cut down at the center of the stud. Cut anew piece and screw to stud both sides. Tape all sides and feather. If there are no studs you can wire patch in. Fit a piece and drill two holes on four sides, one in the patch and one in the wall. Wire in, tape and plaster. For broken plaster over lath: remove loose plaster and cut a piece of sheetrock to the shape of the hole. Screw to lath and or studs. Plaster one does not want to remove can be secured with sheetrock screws and wide thin washers screwed into lath. All cracks are taped. You can also use USG 'Structolite', if you can find it, which can be put in thick. Scrape when dry, tape edges and cover with All Purpose and Topping. Always tape all edges in patching.
5. Cracks dug out and filled with plaster will crack again eventually. The best way to fix cracks is to cover them with paper sheetrock tape as described in Para 2. When taping curves like curved ceilings, use short pieces a foot to 2 feet long, overlapping a little at ends. Long pieces of tape on the curve will shrink and pull away from the wall. Patches do not need to be primed. Acrylic primer seals add a harder skin. However large areas like sheetrocked whole walls and rooms probably should be primed for toughness and seal to save on finish paint.
6. Textured, uneven walls, wall paper, plywood, even concrete block (best sealed) can be skim coated over to make smooth. For really deep rents or even making curves, use Structolite, which can fill up to four to 6 inches thick in one coat. Otherwise MSG 'All Purpose' can be applied and holds up pretty thick even up to an inch. Thick coats should be let dry before a second coat, so shrinking is completed. Anytime one removes by scraping ceiling or wall texture, one should first check to make sure it is not asbestos.
7. When patching, a problem is to match texture. Texture can be hard to match since it is usually machine blown. To texture patches, a stiff stipple brush will often do the trick, by sticking brush in plaster and stippling on finished and dry patch. If necessary, after it sets up a little, trowel over it to flatten high spots. Thick/thin plaster will give varying affects. Another method for large areas where called for is a little sand in the plaster. Drag blade flat across already dry patch. Of course one can use fingers, palms, sponge, rag or whatever to get the desired effect. This sort of thing can be practiced on a piece of sheetrock or plywood.
8. Lots of people use 'Fixall' and quick dry patch mixes. Fixall expands which helps to seal it in place. So if using allow for a hump. Gets very hard and needs electric sander to grind down. Unlike Structolite, Fixall sets up really fast so can mix only a little at time. Quick dry contains chemicals that can bleed through the paint, and thus require a coat of plaster, primer or 2 or more coats of finish. Thus it really doesn't save much time.
* Most quick dry patching compounds are difficult to sand. You should use standard wallboard joint compound for patching wallboard (drywall) or plaster.
* If the hole is doorknob size or larger, consider using the method described in Repair Holes in Drywall.
* To solve the 'hump' problem when using Fixall, wait for it to 'set up' a bit (but not fully hardened) and then 'shave' it with your moistened drywall knife.
2. Most all repair jobs not done with spackle can be done with 'All Purpose Tape and Joint Compound' and 'Topping', both called 'mud', recommending USG or US Gypsum. Mud is usually held in a 'California Cake Pan' or small rectangular box about 4 x 12". Joint paper tape is used for all repairs. Never use mesh, as it is mostly air and will often crack. A roll of tape soaked in water is easiest for amateurs, sticks and flattens better, and is thinner the longer it is soaked. However it is more messy. Mud is applied in a straight line for the length of tape used, with preferably a 9 inch topping blade used for all operations. The tape is pressed into the mud completely flat and the excess is scraped off. This can be allowed to dry or a second coat can be applied immediately, so as to cover the tape.
3. This coat can be from 6 to 12 inches wide or wider. This then is allowed to dry overnight and usually a third coat of Topping is put over that. Tape can be of any length and should be overlapped about an inch when put together. All Purpose is structural, hard, shrinks and is more difficult to sand. Topping is finish, soft, doesn't shrink as much and is easy to sand, with 120 grit or sponge smooth. Sanding is best under enamel. Sponging raises no dust, but can show messy under enamel, but often good enough under flat latex.
4. Holes the size of a golf ball and smaller can be backed with some tight fitting plug or glued, something thin like can lid or simply taped over. Any rise caused by the patch can be feathered out with plaster, 12 or more inches all round. A patch is always taped over. Large holes are usually repaired with sheetrock of same thickness as what's there or thinner. For sheetrock walls: with a 'sheetrock saw' cut up and across and down & across to the stud in both directions. Cut down along the stud and remove sheetrock. With a razor-knife cut down at the center of the stud. Cut anew piece and screw to stud both sides. Tape all sides and feather. If there are no studs you can wire patch in. Fit a piece and drill two holes on four sides, one in the patch and one in the wall. Wire in, tape and plaster. For broken plaster over lath: remove loose plaster and cut a piece of sheetrock to the shape of the hole. Screw to lath and or studs. Plaster one does not want to remove can be secured with sheetrock screws and wide thin washers screwed into lath. All cracks are taped. You can also use USG 'Structolite', if you can find it, which can be put in thick. Scrape when dry, tape edges and cover with All Purpose and Topping. Always tape all edges in patching.
5. Cracks dug out and filled with plaster will crack again eventually. The best way to fix cracks is to cover them with paper sheetrock tape as described in Para 2. When taping curves like curved ceilings, use short pieces a foot to 2 feet long, overlapping a little at ends. Long pieces of tape on the curve will shrink and pull away from the wall. Patches do not need to be primed. Acrylic primer seals add a harder skin. However large areas like sheetrocked whole walls and rooms probably should be primed for toughness and seal to save on finish paint.
6. Textured, uneven walls, wall paper, plywood, even concrete block (best sealed) can be skim coated over to make smooth. For really deep rents or even making curves, use Structolite, which can fill up to four to 6 inches thick in one coat. Otherwise MSG 'All Purpose' can be applied and holds up pretty thick even up to an inch. Thick coats should be let dry before a second coat, so shrinking is completed. Anytime one removes by scraping ceiling or wall texture, one should first check to make sure it is not asbestos.
7. When patching, a problem is to match texture. Texture can be hard to match since it is usually machine blown. To texture patches, a stiff stipple brush will often do the trick, by sticking brush in plaster and stippling on finished and dry patch. If necessary, after it sets up a little, trowel over it to flatten high spots. Thick/thin plaster will give varying affects. Another method for large areas where called for is a little sand in the plaster. Drag blade flat across already dry patch. Of course one can use fingers, palms, sponge, rag or whatever to get the desired effect. This sort of thing can be practiced on a piece of sheetrock or plywood.
8. Lots of people use 'Fixall' and quick dry patch mixes. Fixall expands which helps to seal it in place. So if using allow for a hump. Gets very hard and needs electric sander to grind down. Unlike Structolite, Fixall sets up really fast so can mix only a little at time. Quick dry contains chemicals that can bleed through the paint, and thus require a coat of plaster, primer or 2 or more coats of finish. Thus it really doesn't save much time.
Tips
* Most quick dry patching compounds are difficult to sand. You should use standard wallboard joint compound for patching wallboard (drywall) or plaster.
* If the hole is doorknob size or larger, consider using the method described in Repair Holes in Drywall.
* To solve the 'hump' problem when using Fixall, wait for it to 'set up' a bit (but not fully hardened) and then 'shave' it with your moistened drywall knife.
General Interior Design Tips
● If you just bought a new house and will start decorating, keep the walls simple and majority of the walls plain especially if you are the typical Filipino who keeps accumulating things over the years and can't throw away anything because of sentimental reasons. So that when you move in your furniture, wall decors and accessories, the rooms will not look cluttered.
● If you are buying new furniture, measure your room and the furniture. Scale the room & furniture on cutout newspaper: 1 feet = 1 inch and see if the furniture are proportionate to the room. Make sure there are ample spaces to walk around your furniture.
● Feel free to mix and match different styles of stuff, like contemporary furniture with oriental pieces. Just don't over do it. Make sure they blend together.
● One way to beautify a room even if the walls are plain white is by putting moldings or cornice on the ceiling edge and baseboards.
● If you want to make a room look bigger, use mirrors. they give you an illusion of more space. Colors too affect the illusion of space. A monochromatic color scheme (one/similar color with different shades) like off whites, cream & beige will give you an appearance of more space while warm colors like red and yellow will give an impression of a smaller space. On the other hand cool colors like blue and green will give an openness appearance.
● When choosing a new color for a wall, paint a section of the wall and observe it for a few days at different times. It is a good idea to paint one shade lighter than your sample swatch. Almost always, the color on your sample will look brighter on a big wall than on a small swatch.
● Don't use gloss paint on ceilings, they will show imperfections specially at night when you open the lights.
● It is advised that you don't use strong colors on areas that you frequently use. But you can be more daring with colors on hallways and staircases where you just pass by and don't really stay as often like your bedroom.
● Install your picture frames on eye level, putting them high on the wall makes your ceiling seem lower. Aside from the fact that people will have to gaze up to look at your picture.
● If your floor is made of concrete, tiles or any stone material, put area rugs to make your room cozy and rotate your rug /carpet once in a while to even out the wear and tear.
● Use inexpensive garden pots as indoor planter by painting and decorating them.
● Your garden affects a great deal in beautifying your home but be cautious with big plants, shrubs and trees. They can be hiding places for burglars.
● It is also a good idea to put gravel near windows so you (or your dog) can hear if somebody is trying to peek inside.
● Lights are deterrent to thieves. Light your house exterior more than the inside of your house when going to bed.
● In designing, the overall look of your home is paramount. From your furniture, wall colors, to lighting fixtures, everything should be proportional, balanced and harmonious. A small and delicately carved side table may be beautiful as a piece of furniture but it may not blend well next to a bulky and oversized living room set. Always consider other elements in a room when choosing your furniture, drapes, etc. Ask yourself it is the right size & scale, color and style. If the answer is yes, go ahead and trust your instincts.
● Your home should reflect your personality. You can hire an interior designer or decorator, but in the end it should be you and your family's character that should reflect in your home. Go along only with suggestions that is pleasing to you. Remember that a beautiful home is a home that is beautiful to it's owner.
● If you are buying new furniture, measure your room and the furniture. Scale the room & furniture on cutout newspaper: 1 feet = 1 inch and see if the furniture are proportionate to the room. Make sure there are ample spaces to walk around your furniture.
● Feel free to mix and match different styles of stuff, like contemporary furniture with oriental pieces. Just don't over do it. Make sure they blend together.
● One way to beautify a room even if the walls are plain white is by putting moldings or cornice on the ceiling edge and baseboards.
● If you want to make a room look bigger, use mirrors. they give you an illusion of more space. Colors too affect the illusion of space. A monochromatic color scheme (one/similar color with different shades) like off whites, cream & beige will give you an appearance of more space while warm colors like red and yellow will give an impression of a smaller space. On the other hand cool colors like blue and green will give an openness appearance.
● When choosing a new color for a wall, paint a section of the wall and observe it for a few days at different times. It is a good idea to paint one shade lighter than your sample swatch. Almost always, the color on your sample will look brighter on a big wall than on a small swatch.
● Don't use gloss paint on ceilings, they will show imperfections specially at night when you open the lights.
● It is advised that you don't use strong colors on areas that you frequently use. But you can be more daring with colors on hallways and staircases where you just pass by and don't really stay as often like your bedroom.
● Install your picture frames on eye level, putting them high on the wall makes your ceiling seem lower. Aside from the fact that people will have to gaze up to look at your picture.
● If your floor is made of concrete, tiles or any stone material, put area rugs to make your room cozy and rotate your rug /carpet once in a while to even out the wear and tear.
● Use inexpensive garden pots as indoor planter by painting and decorating them.
● Your garden affects a great deal in beautifying your home but be cautious with big plants, shrubs and trees. They can be hiding places for burglars.
● It is also a good idea to put gravel near windows so you (or your dog) can hear if somebody is trying to peek inside.
● Lights are deterrent to thieves. Light your house exterior more than the inside of your house when going to bed.
● In designing, the overall look of your home is paramount. From your furniture, wall colors, to lighting fixtures, everything should be proportional, balanced and harmonious. A small and delicately carved side table may be beautiful as a piece of furniture but it may not blend well next to a bulky and oversized living room set. Always consider other elements in a room when choosing your furniture, drapes, etc. Ask yourself it is the right size & scale, color and style. If the answer is yes, go ahead and trust your instincts.
● Your home should reflect your personality. You can hire an interior designer or decorator, but in the end it should be you and your family's character that should reflect in your home. Go along only with suggestions that is pleasing to you. Remember that a beautiful home is a home that is beautiful to it's owner.
How to Paint a Room
1. Clear the room of any moveable furniture and cover what you can't move.
2. Wash walls. Grease will particularly hinder the application of paint. Use a light acid or detergent. Mold should be removed with a mix of bleach and water, then washed again with plain water. Some molds can be very hazardous. Use of a filter mask is recommended.
3. Seal in stains of mold or ink with a sealer, primer or Shellac; otherwise, they may bleed through the final coat of paint.
4. Fill holes with spackle or plaster. Latex (paintable) caulk can be used for filling gaps such as where baseboards or trim meet walls. Feather with wet finger, clean up with wet rag or sponge. Large cracks are best repaired with joint paper, tape, and an all purpose joint compound.
5. Protect surfaces not being painted. You may use painters tape to tape off baseboards, windows, and trim, or you may prefer to wipe away stray brush strokes. Tape applied to plaster surfaces sometimes removes the plaster when the tape is removed.
6. Protect the floor with a painters tarp, preferably non-skid plastic under that.
7. Protect your hands with latex gloves. You can also coat your hands and wrists with petroleum jelly so water and oil based paints do not penetrate the skin and come off easily.
8. Apply primer. Primers are undercoats, usually white, mostly oil sometimes water base. It is important to use a primer if you are painting new wallboard, unpainted wood, a light color over a dark color or stains. Primers are also important if you are applying a latex paint over an oil-based paint because latex paints do not stick well to an oil-based paint. A latex paint will often peel after awhile if applied over an oil base paint without primer. Primers are usually white, but they are sometime tinted to match final color if that color is particularly intense.
9. Ideally you should always paint ceilings first, then trim, then walls. It is much easier to paint latex walls straight along the trim, than to paint the little edge of the trim after the wall has been painted. Paint all trim edges where meets walls first. Then always start at the top doing all vertical and horizontal corners with a brush first. Use a small like can like the one gallon bucket the paint came in with an inch or two of paint. For larger jobs can use 2 ladders and a 2x12 inch plank. It may be easier to paint ceiling, cut corners and roll out. After ceiling and or top of the walls are done, do high trim if any with trim paint. Do flat underneath and roll out. Then move ladders and plank and roll down to base boards. Touch up base boards last if needed (many painters will mask the top edge of baseboards while painting the walls). Can do from top to bottom, all with one ladder's placement. Roller strokes are generally vertical first and finish with horizontal so the eye tends across instead of up and down.If two or more coats are required always let dry over night.Trim is generally done in semi-gloss enamel either water or oil base. A lot of people prefer the look and durability of oil. You should NOT paint latex over oil as it tends to peel. If painting water base enamel over oil base trim or wall as well, need to primer first. Same with kitchen or bathroom. Other methods are to use acid or sand to give water based paint a grip. For speed when painting trim and doors can use roller to get a lot paint on fast then immediately brush it out, or even use a fine roller for texture on doors. When painting with especially oil finish coat, should complete the whole of any section, as stopping till dry, and starting again may show. Oil and semi-gloss enamel can be worked with 5 gallon bucket, roller tray(s) or both.
10. Apply paint to walls. For large jobs, the safest way to paint is to use a 5-gallon bucket for mixing and painting. If you place a metal roller screen in the bucket it is easy to move around, less likely to spill, and easy to store with a cover. Use a high-quality roller cover to avoid leaving bits of the nap in the paint on the wall. This is particularly important when using oil-based paints. Different length naps puts on different amounts of paint and influence texture. Best quality is usually lambs wool. Roller handles are available with various length extensions. For very small jobs you can use a mini-roller with a 3-inch cover. Long naps are recommended for applying latex paint. One 3 1/2 inch nylon angle brush can be used for everything including both water and oil based paints. Always use best quality.
11. Clean baseboards immediately if paint splatters or runs onto them. Use a wet sponge or cloth of either water or paint thinner depending on paint. Paint thinner is needed to clean up oil-based paints. Water will clean up latex paints.
12. Clean brushes. If the job is extended to next day, the roller handle and roller can be left submerged in the 5 gallon bucket of paint. The brushes should be cleaned thoroughly with wire brush in thinner or water and flushed with water until no paint runs out. This level of care will ensure that your brushes will last for many years. Alternately, the roller can be removed from the roller handle, scraped of as much paint as possible into the bucket or can, put into a plastic bag and placed in the freezer. Same with the brush. Of course they need a little thawing the next day.
* A painter's 5-in-1 tool is essential for cleaning rollers. It has a circular blade that is designed to "scrape" the extra paint out of the roller. As much as a half-cup of paint can remain loaded in a roller when you are done painting, so you will waste a lot of paint and a lot of water or thinner trying to wash it all out.
* Another great tool for cleaning both brushes and rollers is a brush spinner. This tool spins the brushes and rollers to dry them very thoroughly and quickly. Spin the brush and rollers inside a bucket so you don't splash paint everywhere.
* Pick your room color from a favorite object, i.e. painting, jewelry, serving dish, flower.
* Don't be afraid to go bold!
* Find an experienced clerk at the hardware store for good, free advice.
* Painting your ceiling a different color than the walls will cause the room to feel smaller. This is a good idea if you have really tall ceilings, but not so good if you live in a small box.
* Take your time! Painting will never be fun (unless you inhale too many fumes) but a little extra time in preparation and application will make a world of difference. Remember, you will be looking at these walls for a long time and while your visitors won't notice that little drip behind the door, or the messy brush strokes behind the curtain, YOU WILL!
* Use primer. Even when painting over white walls. If your old paint was glossy, the paint won't stick well and it may take 2 or 3 or more coats of paint. Primer is designed to works its way into the tiny pits and texture of any surface and provides the perfect surface for your new paint to stick.
* If you're painting a dark or intense color, have your primer tinted. It will make your end results better, and with less effort.
* A great way to save time (and your back) when cleaning the walls, is to use a mop. Use the sponge type of mop (get a fresh one for your walls) and use a cleaner that won't leave a film (avoid things like Murphy Oil Soap).
* Use bleach water (50/50) on any stains or mildew. Spray it on and let it sit for 5-10 minutes. Wipe it off and let it dry before you paint. (WARNING: Bleach fumes can be dangerous, so setup a fan and/or open a window).
* An easy way to protect your floors is to use plastic carpet runner (the kind with or without the sharp little spikes). It rolls up for easy storage and it will hold your tarp/plastic down better than tape. Just lay your plastic down in front of the wall, and then lay the runner up flush against the wall. A 4 foot section gives you plenty of protection and just move it along with you as you work on the wall.
* Add 1 Tbsp of clear vanilla extract to a gallon of paint to eliminate paint fumes. Will not thin the paint or alter the color (use CLEAR extract!)
2. Wash walls. Grease will particularly hinder the application of paint. Use a light acid or detergent. Mold should be removed with a mix of bleach and water, then washed again with plain water. Some molds can be very hazardous. Use of a filter mask is recommended.
3. Seal in stains of mold or ink with a sealer, primer or Shellac; otherwise, they may bleed through the final coat of paint.
4. Fill holes with spackle or plaster. Latex (paintable) caulk can be used for filling gaps such as where baseboards or trim meet walls. Feather with wet finger, clean up with wet rag or sponge. Large cracks are best repaired with joint paper, tape, and an all purpose joint compound.
5. Protect surfaces not being painted. You may use painters tape to tape off baseboards, windows, and trim, or you may prefer to wipe away stray brush strokes. Tape applied to plaster surfaces sometimes removes the plaster when the tape is removed.
6. Protect the floor with a painters tarp, preferably non-skid plastic under that.
7. Protect your hands with latex gloves. You can also coat your hands and wrists with petroleum jelly so water and oil based paints do not penetrate the skin and come off easily.
8. Apply primer. Primers are undercoats, usually white, mostly oil sometimes water base. It is important to use a primer if you are painting new wallboard, unpainted wood, a light color over a dark color or stains. Primers are also important if you are applying a latex paint over an oil-based paint because latex paints do not stick well to an oil-based paint. A latex paint will often peel after awhile if applied over an oil base paint without primer. Primers are usually white, but they are sometime tinted to match final color if that color is particularly intense.
9. Ideally you should always paint ceilings first, then trim, then walls. It is much easier to paint latex walls straight along the trim, than to paint the little edge of the trim after the wall has been painted. Paint all trim edges where meets walls first. Then always start at the top doing all vertical and horizontal corners with a brush first. Use a small like can like the one gallon bucket the paint came in with an inch or two of paint. For larger jobs can use 2 ladders and a 2x12 inch plank. It may be easier to paint ceiling, cut corners and roll out. After ceiling and or top of the walls are done, do high trim if any with trim paint. Do flat underneath and roll out. Then move ladders and plank and roll down to base boards. Touch up base boards last if needed (many painters will mask the top edge of baseboards while painting the walls). Can do from top to bottom, all with one ladder's placement. Roller strokes are generally vertical first and finish with horizontal so the eye tends across instead of up and down.If two or more coats are required always let dry over night.Trim is generally done in semi-gloss enamel either water or oil base. A lot of people prefer the look and durability of oil. You should NOT paint latex over oil as it tends to peel. If painting water base enamel over oil base trim or wall as well, need to primer first. Same with kitchen or bathroom. Other methods are to use acid or sand to give water based paint a grip. For speed when painting trim and doors can use roller to get a lot paint on fast then immediately brush it out, or even use a fine roller for texture on doors. When painting with especially oil finish coat, should complete the whole of any section, as stopping till dry, and starting again may show. Oil and semi-gloss enamel can be worked with 5 gallon bucket, roller tray(s) or both.
10. Apply paint to walls. For large jobs, the safest way to paint is to use a 5-gallon bucket for mixing and painting. If you place a metal roller screen in the bucket it is easy to move around, less likely to spill, and easy to store with a cover. Use a high-quality roller cover to avoid leaving bits of the nap in the paint on the wall. This is particularly important when using oil-based paints. Different length naps puts on different amounts of paint and influence texture. Best quality is usually lambs wool. Roller handles are available with various length extensions. For very small jobs you can use a mini-roller with a 3-inch cover. Long naps are recommended for applying latex paint. One 3 1/2 inch nylon angle brush can be used for everything including both water and oil based paints. Always use best quality.
11. Clean baseboards immediately if paint splatters or runs onto them. Use a wet sponge or cloth of either water or paint thinner depending on paint. Paint thinner is needed to clean up oil-based paints. Water will clean up latex paints.
12. Clean brushes. If the job is extended to next day, the roller handle and roller can be left submerged in the 5 gallon bucket of paint. The brushes should be cleaned thoroughly with wire brush in thinner or water and flushed with water until no paint runs out. This level of care will ensure that your brushes will last for many years. Alternately, the roller can be removed from the roller handle, scraped of as much paint as possible into the bucket or can, put into a plastic bag and placed in the freezer. Same with the brush. Of course they need a little thawing the next day.
Tips
* A painter's 5-in-1 tool is essential for cleaning rollers. It has a circular blade that is designed to "scrape" the extra paint out of the roller. As much as a half-cup of paint can remain loaded in a roller when you are done painting, so you will waste a lot of paint and a lot of water or thinner trying to wash it all out.
* Another great tool for cleaning both brushes and rollers is a brush spinner. This tool spins the brushes and rollers to dry them very thoroughly and quickly. Spin the brush and rollers inside a bucket so you don't splash paint everywhere.
* Pick your room color from a favorite object, i.e. painting, jewelry, serving dish, flower.
* Don't be afraid to go bold!
* Find an experienced clerk at the hardware store for good, free advice.
* Painting your ceiling a different color than the walls will cause the room to feel smaller. This is a good idea if you have really tall ceilings, but not so good if you live in a small box.
* Take your time! Painting will never be fun (unless you inhale too many fumes) but a little extra time in preparation and application will make a world of difference. Remember, you will be looking at these walls for a long time and while your visitors won't notice that little drip behind the door, or the messy brush strokes behind the curtain, YOU WILL!
* Use primer. Even when painting over white walls. If your old paint was glossy, the paint won't stick well and it may take 2 or 3 or more coats of paint. Primer is designed to works its way into the tiny pits and texture of any surface and provides the perfect surface for your new paint to stick.
* If you're painting a dark or intense color, have your primer tinted. It will make your end results better, and with less effort.
* A great way to save time (and your back) when cleaning the walls, is to use a mop. Use the sponge type of mop (get a fresh one for your walls) and use a cleaner that won't leave a film (avoid things like Murphy Oil Soap).
* Use bleach water (50/50) on any stains or mildew. Spray it on and let it sit for 5-10 minutes. Wipe it off and let it dry before you paint. (WARNING: Bleach fumes can be dangerous, so setup a fan and/or open a window).
* An easy way to protect your floors is to use plastic carpet runner (the kind with or without the sharp little spikes). It rolls up for easy storage and it will hold your tarp/plastic down better than tape. Just lay your plastic down in front of the wall, and then lay the runner up flush against the wall. A 4 foot section gives you plenty of protection and just move it along with you as you work on the wall.
* Add 1 Tbsp of clear vanilla extract to a gallon of paint to eliminate paint fumes. Will not thin the paint or alter the color (use CLEAR extract!)
Brushes
When you embark on an interior painting job, you'll soon discover how easy it is to use brushes and rollers competently. Even so, there are a few techniques that will help postpone fatigue and provide a neater job.
Grasp sash and trim brushes as you would a pencil (top). Hold a wall brush with your entire hand (bottom).
�2006 Publications International, Ltd.
Grasp sash and trim brushes as you would
a pencil (top). Hold a wall brush with your
entire hand (bottom).
The grip you use depends on the brush you've chosen. Trim and sash brushes with pencil handles are grasped much as you would a pencil, with the thumb and the first two fingers of the hand. This technique gives you excellent control for intricate painting. With beaver-tail handles on larger brushes, you'll need a stronger grip because the brushes are wider and heavier. Hold the handle with the entire hand, letting the handle span the width of your palm as you would hold a tennis racket. This technique works best when you're painting large, flat surfaces.
The goal of loading a brush is to get as much paint on the wall as possible without dribbling it all over the floor and yourself in the process. It will take you only a few minutes to be able to gauge accurately how much paint your brush will hold along the way. Meanwhile, start the job by dampening the bristles of the brush (with water for latex or the appropriate thinner for other types of paint) to condition them and make them more efficient. Remove excess moisture by gently striking the metal band around the handle's base against the edge of your palm and into a sink or bucket.
Never dip a brush more than about one-third the length of the bristles into the paint.
�2006 Publications International, Ltd.
Never dip a brush more than about
one-third the length of the bristles into
the paint. If you do, the brush will
become next to impossible to clean.
With the first dip, move the brush around a bit in the paint to open the bristles and let the brush fill completely. It will be easier to pick up a full load if you jab the brush gently into the paint with each dip. With most latex paints, you can simply dip the brush and let the excess drip off for a few seconds before moving the brush to the wall. With thinner coatings, however, you may have to gently slap the brush against the inside of the paint can or lightly drag it across the inside edge of the lip to remove excess paint.
To neatly paint up to a line where two edges or colors meet, called "cutting in," use a trim brush with beveled bristles (the end of the brush resembles a chisel). Paint five or six strokes perpendicular to the edge of the ceiling or the wall. Next, smooth over these strokes with a single, long stroke, painting out from the corner first, then vertically. Where the wall and ceiling come together, use downward strokes on the wall first followed by smooth horizontal strokes.
On the ceiling itself, cut in strokes toward the center of the room, away from the wall. Then paint a smooth horizontal stroke on the ceiling that follows the direction of the wall. Even if you're using the same color of paint on adjoining surfaces, follow this method of cutting in with 2-inch-wide borders rather than just plopping a loaded brush directly into a corner. This will prevent drips, sags, and runs.
To cut in at a corner, paint out from the corner for five or six strokes.
�2006 Publications International, Ltd.
To cut in at a corner, paint out from the corner for five or six strokes, then smooth
over them with a single, long, smooth stroke.
Another cutting-in approach, beading, can practically eliminate the need to use masking tape to protect one painted area from another. Use a beveled trim brush with nice long bristles. Hold the brush so that your thumb is on one side of the metal ferrule and your fingers on the other. Press the brush lightly against the surface, then, as you move the brush, add just enough pressure to make the bristles bend away from the direction of your brushstroke. Keep the brush about 1⁄16 inch away from the other colored surface. The bent bristles and the pressure will release a fine bead of paint that will spread into the gap.
With both methods of cutting in, but especially when you're dealing with two colors, it's better to have a brush that's too dry than one that's too wet. This is detail work. To do it effectively, go slowly and cut in 4 or 5 inches at a time. It will seem tedious at first, but your speed and accuracy will improve with practice, and even one ordinary-size room will give you lots of practice.
Rollers
Grasp sash and trim brushes as you would a pencil (top). Hold a wall brush with your entire hand (bottom).
�2006 Publications International, Ltd.
Grasp sash and trim brushes as you would
a pencil (top). Hold a wall brush with your
entire hand (bottom).
The grip you use depends on the brush you've chosen. Trim and sash brushes with pencil handles are grasped much as you would a pencil, with the thumb and the first two fingers of the hand. This technique gives you excellent control for intricate painting. With beaver-tail handles on larger brushes, you'll need a stronger grip because the brushes are wider and heavier. Hold the handle with the entire hand, letting the handle span the width of your palm as you would hold a tennis racket. This technique works best when you're painting large, flat surfaces.
The goal of loading a brush is to get as much paint on the wall as possible without dribbling it all over the floor and yourself in the process. It will take you only a few minutes to be able to gauge accurately how much paint your brush will hold along the way. Meanwhile, start the job by dampening the bristles of the brush (with water for latex or the appropriate thinner for other types of paint) to condition them and make them more efficient. Remove excess moisture by gently striking the metal band around the handle's base against the edge of your palm and into a sink or bucket.
Never dip a brush more than about one-third the length of the bristles into the paint.
�2006 Publications International, Ltd.
Never dip a brush more than about
one-third the length of the bristles into
the paint. If you do, the brush will
become next to impossible to clean.
With the first dip, move the brush around a bit in the paint to open the bristles and let the brush fill completely. It will be easier to pick up a full load if you jab the brush gently into the paint with each dip. With most latex paints, you can simply dip the brush and let the excess drip off for a few seconds before moving the brush to the wall. With thinner coatings, however, you may have to gently slap the brush against the inside of the paint can or lightly drag it across the inside edge of the lip to remove excess paint.
To neatly paint up to a line where two edges or colors meet, called "cutting in," use a trim brush with beveled bristles (the end of the brush resembles a chisel). Paint five or six strokes perpendicular to the edge of the ceiling or the wall. Next, smooth over these strokes with a single, long stroke, painting out from the corner first, then vertically. Where the wall and ceiling come together, use downward strokes on the wall first followed by smooth horizontal strokes.
On the ceiling itself, cut in strokes toward the center of the room, away from the wall. Then paint a smooth horizontal stroke on the ceiling that follows the direction of the wall. Even if you're using the same color of paint on adjoining surfaces, follow this method of cutting in with 2-inch-wide borders rather than just plopping a loaded brush directly into a corner. This will prevent drips, sags, and runs.
To cut in at a corner, paint out from the corner for five or six strokes.
�2006 Publications International, Ltd.
To cut in at a corner, paint out from the corner for five or six strokes, then smooth
over them with a single, long, smooth stroke.
Another cutting-in approach, beading, can practically eliminate the need to use masking tape to protect one painted area from another. Use a beveled trim brush with nice long bristles. Hold the brush so that your thumb is on one side of the metal ferrule and your fingers on the other. Press the brush lightly against the surface, then, as you move the brush, add just enough pressure to make the bristles bend away from the direction of your brushstroke. Keep the brush about 1⁄16 inch away from the other colored surface. The bent bristles and the pressure will release a fine bead of paint that will spread into the gap.
With both methods of cutting in, but especially when you're dealing with two colors, it's better to have a brush that's too dry than one that's too wet. This is detail work. To do it effectively, go slowly and cut in 4 or 5 inches at a time. It will seem tedious at first, but your speed and accuracy will improve with practice, and even one ordinary-size room will give you lots of practice.
Rollers
Working with a roller is even less exacting than working with a brush. Even a novice painter can get the feel of it in just a few minutes.
As with brushes, moisten the roller first with water for latex paint or the appropriate thinner for other types of paint. Roll out the excess moisture on a piece of scrap lumber or kraft paper or even on a paper grocery bag. Don't use newspaper because the roller may pick up the ink. Fill the well of the roller pan about half full, and set the roller into the middle of the well. Lift the roller and roll it down the slope of the pan, stopping just short of the well. Do this two or three times to allow the paint to work into the roller. Then, dip the roller into the well once more, and roll it on the slope until the pile is well saturated. You'll know immediately when you've overloaded the roller. It will drip en route to the wall and have a tendency to slide and smear instead of roll across the surface.
To load a roller, fill the well of the pan about half full and set the roller into the well.
�2006 Publications International, Ltd.
To load a roller, fill the well of the pan about half full and set the roller into the
well. Then lift the roller and roll it down the slope of the pan two or three times
to work paint into the roller.
The most effective method of painting with a roller is to paint 2-or 3-square-foot areas at a time. Roll the paint on in a zigzag pattern without lifting the roller from the wall, as if you're painting a large M, W, or backward N. Then, still without lifting the roller, fill in the blanks of the letters with more horizontal or vertical zigzag strokes. Finish the area with light strokes that start in the unpainted area and roll into the paint. At the end of the stroke, raise the roller slowly so it does not leave a mark. Go to the next unpainted area, and repeat the zigzag technique, ending it just below or next to the first painted patch. Finally, smooth the new application, and blend it into the previously finished area.
With a roller, begin by making an M, a backward N, or a W pattern about 3 feet square.
�2006 Publications International, Ltd.
With a roller, begin by making an M, a backward N, or a W pattern about 3 feet
square. Always start with an upstroke so paint won't run down the wall. Next,
fill in the pattern with crosswise strokes. You should be able to paint each
3-square-foot area with one dip of the roller.
Professional painters also suggest starting with a roller stroke that moves away from you. On walls, that means the first stroke should be up. If you roll down on the first stroke, the paint may puddle under the roller and run down the wall. In addition, be careful not to run the roller so rapidly across the wall that centrifugal force causes it to spray.
If you have a large indoor painting job, an airless sprayer is the best tool to use. We'll take a look at airless sprayers and how to use them safely in the next section.
As with brushes, moisten the roller first with water for latex paint or the appropriate thinner for other types of paint. Roll out the excess moisture on a piece of scrap lumber or kraft paper or even on a paper grocery bag. Don't use newspaper because the roller may pick up the ink. Fill the well of the roller pan about half full, and set the roller into the middle of the well. Lift the roller and roll it down the slope of the pan, stopping just short of the well. Do this two or three times to allow the paint to work into the roller. Then, dip the roller into the well once more, and roll it on the slope until the pile is well saturated. You'll know immediately when you've overloaded the roller. It will drip en route to the wall and have a tendency to slide and smear instead of roll across the surface.
To load a roller, fill the well of the pan about half full and set the roller into the well.
�2006 Publications International, Ltd.
To load a roller, fill the well of the pan about half full and set the roller into the
well. Then lift the roller and roll it down the slope of the pan two or three times
to work paint into the roller.
The most effective method of painting with a roller is to paint 2-or 3-square-foot areas at a time. Roll the paint on in a zigzag pattern without lifting the roller from the wall, as if you're painting a large M, W, or backward N. Then, still without lifting the roller, fill in the blanks of the letters with more horizontal or vertical zigzag strokes. Finish the area with light strokes that start in the unpainted area and roll into the paint. At the end of the stroke, raise the roller slowly so it does not leave a mark. Go to the next unpainted area, and repeat the zigzag technique, ending it just below or next to the first painted patch. Finally, smooth the new application, and blend it into the previously finished area.
With a roller, begin by making an M, a backward N, or a W pattern about 3 feet square.
�2006 Publications International, Ltd.
With a roller, begin by making an M, a backward N, or a W pattern about 3 feet
square. Always start with an upstroke so paint won't run down the wall. Next,
fill in the pattern with crosswise strokes. You should be able to paint each
3-square-foot area with one dip of the roller.
Professional painters also suggest starting with a roller stroke that moves away from you. On walls, that means the first stroke should be up. If you roll down on the first stroke, the paint may puddle under the roller and run down the wall. In addition, be careful not to run the roller so rapidly across the wall that centrifugal force causes it to spray.
If you have a large indoor painting job, an airless sprayer is the best tool to use. We'll take a look at airless sprayers and how to use them safely in the next section.
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