1. Clear the room of any moveable furniture and cover what you can't move.
2. Wash walls. Grease will particularly hinder the application of paint. Use a light acid or detergent. Mold should be removed with a mix of bleach and water, then washed again with plain water. Some molds can be very hazardous. Use of a filter mask is recommended.
3. Seal in stains of mold or ink with a sealer, primer or Shellac; otherwise, they may bleed through the final coat of paint.
4. Fill holes with spackle or plaster. Latex (paintable) caulk can be used for filling gaps such as where baseboards or trim meet walls. Feather with wet finger, clean up with wet rag or sponge. Large cracks are best repaired with joint paper, tape, and an all purpose joint compound.
5. Protect surfaces not being painted. You may use painters tape to tape off baseboards, windows, and trim, or you may prefer to wipe away stray brush strokes. Tape applied to plaster surfaces sometimes removes the plaster when the tape is removed.
6. Protect the floor with a painters tarp, preferably non-skid plastic under that.
7. Protect your hands with latex gloves. You can also coat your hands and wrists with petroleum jelly so water and oil based paints do not penetrate the skin and come off easily.
8. Apply primer. Primers are undercoats, usually white, mostly oil sometimes water base. It is important to use a primer if you are painting new wallboard, unpainted wood, a light color over a dark color or stains. Primers are also important if you are applying a latex paint over an oil-based paint because latex paints do not stick well to an oil-based paint. A latex paint will often peel after awhile if applied over an oil base paint without primer. Primers are usually white, but they are sometime tinted to match final color if that color is particularly intense.
9. Ideally you should always paint ceilings first, then trim, then walls. It is much easier to paint latex walls straight along the trim, than to paint the little edge of the trim after the wall has been painted. Paint all trim edges where meets walls first. Then always start at the top doing all vertical and horizontal corners with a brush first. Use a small like can like the one gallon bucket the paint came in with an inch or two of paint. For larger jobs can use 2 ladders and a 2x12 inch plank. It may be easier to paint ceiling, cut corners and roll out. After ceiling and or top of the walls are done, do high trim if any with trim paint. Do flat underneath and roll out. Then move ladders and plank and roll down to base boards. Touch up base boards last if needed (many painters will mask the top edge of baseboards while painting the walls). Can do from top to bottom, all with one ladder's placement. Roller strokes are generally vertical first and finish with horizontal so the eye tends across instead of up and down.If two or more coats are required always let dry over night.Trim is generally done in semi-gloss enamel either water or oil base. A lot of people prefer the look and durability of oil. You should NOT paint latex over oil as it tends to peel. If painting water base enamel over oil base trim or wall as well, need to primer first. Same with kitchen or bathroom. Other methods are to use acid or sand to give water based paint a grip. For speed when painting trim and doors can use roller to get a lot paint on fast then immediately brush it out, or even use a fine roller for texture on doors. When painting with especially oil finish coat, should complete the whole of any section, as stopping till dry, and starting again may show. Oil and semi-gloss enamel can be worked with 5 gallon bucket, roller tray(s) or both.
10. Apply paint to walls. For large jobs, the safest way to paint is to use a 5-gallon bucket for mixing and painting. If you place a metal roller screen in the bucket it is easy to move around, less likely to spill, and easy to store with a cover. Use a high-quality roller cover to avoid leaving bits of the nap in the paint on the wall. This is particularly important when using oil-based paints. Different length naps puts on different amounts of paint and influence texture. Best quality is usually lambs wool. Roller handles are available with various length extensions. For very small jobs you can use a mini-roller with a 3-inch cover. Long naps are recommended for applying latex paint. One 3 1/2 inch nylon angle brush can be used for everything including both water and oil based paints. Always use best quality.
11. Clean baseboards immediately if paint splatters or runs onto them. Use a wet sponge or cloth of either water or paint thinner depending on paint. Paint thinner is needed to clean up oil-based paints. Water will clean up latex paints.
12. Clean brushes. If the job is extended to next day, the roller handle and roller can be left submerged in the 5 gallon bucket of paint. The brushes should be cleaned thoroughly with wire brush in thinner or water and flushed with water until no paint runs out. This level of care will ensure that your brushes will last for many years. Alternately, the roller can be removed from the roller handle, scraped of as much paint as possible into the bucket or can, put into a plastic bag and placed in the freezer. Same with the brush. Of course they need a little thawing the next day.
* A painter's 5-in-1 tool is essential for cleaning rollers. It has a circular blade that is designed to "scrape" the extra paint out of the roller. As much as a half-cup of paint can remain loaded in a roller when you are done painting, so you will waste a lot of paint and a lot of water or thinner trying to wash it all out.
* Another great tool for cleaning both brushes and rollers is a brush spinner. This tool spins the brushes and rollers to dry them very thoroughly and quickly. Spin the brush and rollers inside a bucket so you don't splash paint everywhere.
* Pick your room color from a favorite object, i.e. painting, jewelry, serving dish, flower.
* Don't be afraid to go bold!
* Find an experienced clerk at the hardware store for good, free advice.
* Painting your ceiling a different color than the walls will cause the room to feel smaller. This is a good idea if you have really tall ceilings, but not so good if you live in a small box.
* Take your time! Painting will never be fun (unless you inhale too many fumes) but a little extra time in preparation and application will make a world of difference. Remember, you will be looking at these walls for a long time and while your visitors won't notice that little drip behind the door, or the messy brush strokes behind the curtain, YOU WILL!
* Use primer. Even when painting over white walls. If your old paint was glossy, the paint won't stick well and it may take 2 or 3 or more coats of paint. Primer is designed to works its way into the tiny pits and texture of any surface and provides the perfect surface for your new paint to stick.
* If you're painting a dark or intense color, have your primer tinted. It will make your end results better, and with less effort.
* A great way to save time (and your back) when cleaning the walls, is to use a mop. Use the sponge type of mop (get a fresh one for your walls) and use a cleaner that won't leave a film (avoid things like Murphy Oil Soap).
* Use bleach water (50/50) on any stains or mildew. Spray it on and let it sit for 5-10 minutes. Wipe it off and let it dry before you paint. (WARNING: Bleach fumes can be dangerous, so setup a fan and/or open a window).
* An easy way to protect your floors is to use plastic carpet runner (the kind with or without the sharp little spikes). It rolls up for easy storage and it will hold your tarp/plastic down better than tape. Just lay your plastic down in front of the wall, and then lay the runner up flush against the wall. A 4 foot section gives you plenty of protection and just move it along with you as you work on the wall.
* Add 1 Tbsp of clear vanilla extract to a gallon of paint to eliminate paint fumes. Will not thin the paint or alter the color (use CLEAR extract!)
2. Wash walls. Grease will particularly hinder the application of paint. Use a light acid or detergent. Mold should be removed with a mix of bleach and water, then washed again with plain water. Some molds can be very hazardous. Use of a filter mask is recommended.
3. Seal in stains of mold or ink with a sealer, primer or Shellac; otherwise, they may bleed through the final coat of paint.
4. Fill holes with spackle or plaster. Latex (paintable) caulk can be used for filling gaps such as where baseboards or trim meet walls. Feather with wet finger, clean up with wet rag or sponge. Large cracks are best repaired with joint paper, tape, and an all purpose joint compound.
5. Protect surfaces not being painted. You may use painters tape to tape off baseboards, windows, and trim, or you may prefer to wipe away stray brush strokes. Tape applied to plaster surfaces sometimes removes the plaster when the tape is removed.
6. Protect the floor with a painters tarp, preferably non-skid plastic under that.
7. Protect your hands with latex gloves. You can also coat your hands and wrists with petroleum jelly so water and oil based paints do not penetrate the skin and come off easily.
8. Apply primer. Primers are undercoats, usually white, mostly oil sometimes water base. It is important to use a primer if you are painting new wallboard, unpainted wood, a light color over a dark color or stains. Primers are also important if you are applying a latex paint over an oil-based paint because latex paints do not stick well to an oil-based paint. A latex paint will often peel after awhile if applied over an oil base paint without primer. Primers are usually white, but they are sometime tinted to match final color if that color is particularly intense.
9. Ideally you should always paint ceilings first, then trim, then walls. It is much easier to paint latex walls straight along the trim, than to paint the little edge of the trim after the wall has been painted. Paint all trim edges where meets walls first. Then always start at the top doing all vertical and horizontal corners with a brush first. Use a small like can like the one gallon bucket the paint came in with an inch or two of paint. For larger jobs can use 2 ladders and a 2x12 inch plank. It may be easier to paint ceiling, cut corners and roll out. After ceiling and or top of the walls are done, do high trim if any with trim paint. Do flat underneath and roll out. Then move ladders and plank and roll down to base boards. Touch up base boards last if needed (many painters will mask the top edge of baseboards while painting the walls). Can do from top to bottom, all with one ladder's placement. Roller strokes are generally vertical first and finish with horizontal so the eye tends across instead of up and down.If two or more coats are required always let dry over night.Trim is generally done in semi-gloss enamel either water or oil base. A lot of people prefer the look and durability of oil. You should NOT paint latex over oil as it tends to peel. If painting water base enamel over oil base trim or wall as well, need to primer first. Same with kitchen or bathroom. Other methods are to use acid or sand to give water based paint a grip. For speed when painting trim and doors can use roller to get a lot paint on fast then immediately brush it out, or even use a fine roller for texture on doors. When painting with especially oil finish coat, should complete the whole of any section, as stopping till dry, and starting again may show. Oil and semi-gloss enamel can be worked with 5 gallon bucket, roller tray(s) or both.
10. Apply paint to walls. For large jobs, the safest way to paint is to use a 5-gallon bucket for mixing and painting. If you place a metal roller screen in the bucket it is easy to move around, less likely to spill, and easy to store with a cover. Use a high-quality roller cover to avoid leaving bits of the nap in the paint on the wall. This is particularly important when using oil-based paints. Different length naps puts on different amounts of paint and influence texture. Best quality is usually lambs wool. Roller handles are available with various length extensions. For very small jobs you can use a mini-roller with a 3-inch cover. Long naps are recommended for applying latex paint. One 3 1/2 inch nylon angle brush can be used for everything including both water and oil based paints. Always use best quality.
11. Clean baseboards immediately if paint splatters or runs onto them. Use a wet sponge or cloth of either water or paint thinner depending on paint. Paint thinner is needed to clean up oil-based paints. Water will clean up latex paints.
12. Clean brushes. If the job is extended to next day, the roller handle and roller can be left submerged in the 5 gallon bucket of paint. The brushes should be cleaned thoroughly with wire brush in thinner or water and flushed with water until no paint runs out. This level of care will ensure that your brushes will last for many years. Alternately, the roller can be removed from the roller handle, scraped of as much paint as possible into the bucket or can, put into a plastic bag and placed in the freezer. Same with the brush. Of course they need a little thawing the next day.
Tips
* A painter's 5-in-1 tool is essential for cleaning rollers. It has a circular blade that is designed to "scrape" the extra paint out of the roller. As much as a half-cup of paint can remain loaded in a roller when you are done painting, so you will waste a lot of paint and a lot of water or thinner trying to wash it all out.
* Another great tool for cleaning both brushes and rollers is a brush spinner. This tool spins the brushes and rollers to dry them very thoroughly and quickly. Spin the brush and rollers inside a bucket so you don't splash paint everywhere.
* Pick your room color from a favorite object, i.e. painting, jewelry, serving dish, flower.
* Don't be afraid to go bold!
* Find an experienced clerk at the hardware store for good, free advice.
* Painting your ceiling a different color than the walls will cause the room to feel smaller. This is a good idea if you have really tall ceilings, but not so good if you live in a small box.
* Take your time! Painting will never be fun (unless you inhale too many fumes) but a little extra time in preparation and application will make a world of difference. Remember, you will be looking at these walls for a long time and while your visitors won't notice that little drip behind the door, or the messy brush strokes behind the curtain, YOU WILL!
* Use primer. Even when painting over white walls. If your old paint was glossy, the paint won't stick well and it may take 2 or 3 or more coats of paint. Primer is designed to works its way into the tiny pits and texture of any surface and provides the perfect surface for your new paint to stick.
* If you're painting a dark or intense color, have your primer tinted. It will make your end results better, and with less effort.
* A great way to save time (and your back) when cleaning the walls, is to use a mop. Use the sponge type of mop (get a fresh one for your walls) and use a cleaner that won't leave a film (avoid things like Murphy Oil Soap).
* Use bleach water (50/50) on any stains or mildew. Spray it on and let it sit for 5-10 minutes. Wipe it off and let it dry before you paint. (WARNING: Bleach fumes can be dangerous, so setup a fan and/or open a window).
* An easy way to protect your floors is to use plastic carpet runner (the kind with or without the sharp little spikes). It rolls up for easy storage and it will hold your tarp/plastic down better than tape. Just lay your plastic down in front of the wall, and then lay the runner up flush against the wall. A 4 foot section gives you plenty of protection and just move it along with you as you work on the wall.
* Add 1 Tbsp of clear vanilla extract to a gallon of paint to eliminate paint fumes. Will not thin the paint or alter the color (use CLEAR extract!)
Brushes
When you embark on an interior painting job, you'll soon discover how easy it is to use brushes and rollers competently. Even so, there are a few techniques that will help postpone fatigue and provide a neater job.
Grasp sash and trim brushes as you would a pencil (top). Hold a wall brush with your entire hand (bottom).
�2006 Publications International, Ltd.
Grasp sash and trim brushes as you would
a pencil (top). Hold a wall brush with your
entire hand (bottom).
The grip you use depends on the brush you've chosen. Trim and sash brushes with pencil handles are grasped much as you would a pencil, with the thumb and the first two fingers of the hand. This technique gives you excellent control for intricate painting. With beaver-tail handles on larger brushes, you'll need a stronger grip because the brushes are wider and heavier. Hold the handle with the entire hand, letting the handle span the width of your palm as you would hold a tennis racket. This technique works best when you're painting large, flat surfaces.
The goal of loading a brush is to get as much paint on the wall as possible without dribbling it all over the floor and yourself in the process. It will take you only a few minutes to be able to gauge accurately how much paint your brush will hold along the way. Meanwhile, start the job by dampening the bristles of the brush (with water for latex or the appropriate thinner for other types of paint) to condition them and make them more efficient. Remove excess moisture by gently striking the metal band around the handle's base against the edge of your palm and into a sink or bucket.
Never dip a brush more than about one-third the length of the bristles into the paint.
�2006 Publications International, Ltd.
Never dip a brush more than about
one-third the length of the bristles into
the paint. If you do, the brush will
become next to impossible to clean.
With the first dip, move the brush around a bit in the paint to open the bristles and let the brush fill completely. It will be easier to pick up a full load if you jab the brush gently into the paint with each dip. With most latex paints, you can simply dip the brush and let the excess drip off for a few seconds before moving the brush to the wall. With thinner coatings, however, you may have to gently slap the brush against the inside of the paint can or lightly drag it across the inside edge of the lip to remove excess paint.
To neatly paint up to a line where two edges or colors meet, called "cutting in," use a trim brush with beveled bristles (the end of the brush resembles a chisel). Paint five or six strokes perpendicular to the edge of the ceiling or the wall. Next, smooth over these strokes with a single, long stroke, painting out from the corner first, then vertically. Where the wall and ceiling come together, use downward strokes on the wall first followed by smooth horizontal strokes.
On the ceiling itself, cut in strokes toward the center of the room, away from the wall. Then paint a smooth horizontal stroke on the ceiling that follows the direction of the wall. Even if you're using the same color of paint on adjoining surfaces, follow this method of cutting in with 2-inch-wide borders rather than just plopping a loaded brush directly into a corner. This will prevent drips, sags, and runs.
To cut in at a corner, paint out from the corner for five or six strokes.
�2006 Publications International, Ltd.
To cut in at a corner, paint out from the corner for five or six strokes, then smooth
over them with a single, long, smooth stroke.
Another cutting-in approach, beading, can practically eliminate the need to use masking tape to protect one painted area from another. Use a beveled trim brush with nice long bristles. Hold the brush so that your thumb is on one side of the metal ferrule and your fingers on the other. Press the brush lightly against the surface, then, as you move the brush, add just enough pressure to make the bristles bend away from the direction of your brushstroke. Keep the brush about 1⁄16 inch away from the other colored surface. The bent bristles and the pressure will release a fine bead of paint that will spread into the gap.
With both methods of cutting in, but especially when you're dealing with two colors, it's better to have a brush that's too dry than one that's too wet. This is detail work. To do it effectively, go slowly and cut in 4 or 5 inches at a time. It will seem tedious at first, but your speed and accuracy will improve with practice, and even one ordinary-size room will give you lots of practice.
Rollers
Grasp sash and trim brushes as you would a pencil (top). Hold a wall brush with your entire hand (bottom).
�2006 Publications International, Ltd.
Grasp sash and trim brushes as you would
a pencil (top). Hold a wall brush with your
entire hand (bottom).
The grip you use depends on the brush you've chosen. Trim and sash brushes with pencil handles are grasped much as you would a pencil, with the thumb and the first two fingers of the hand. This technique gives you excellent control for intricate painting. With beaver-tail handles on larger brushes, you'll need a stronger grip because the brushes are wider and heavier. Hold the handle with the entire hand, letting the handle span the width of your palm as you would hold a tennis racket. This technique works best when you're painting large, flat surfaces.
The goal of loading a brush is to get as much paint on the wall as possible without dribbling it all over the floor and yourself in the process. It will take you only a few minutes to be able to gauge accurately how much paint your brush will hold along the way. Meanwhile, start the job by dampening the bristles of the brush (with water for latex or the appropriate thinner for other types of paint) to condition them and make them more efficient. Remove excess moisture by gently striking the metal band around the handle's base against the edge of your palm and into a sink or bucket.
Never dip a brush more than about one-third the length of the bristles into the paint.
�2006 Publications International, Ltd.
Never dip a brush more than about
one-third the length of the bristles into
the paint. If you do, the brush will
become next to impossible to clean.
With the first dip, move the brush around a bit in the paint to open the bristles and let the brush fill completely. It will be easier to pick up a full load if you jab the brush gently into the paint with each dip. With most latex paints, you can simply dip the brush and let the excess drip off for a few seconds before moving the brush to the wall. With thinner coatings, however, you may have to gently slap the brush against the inside of the paint can or lightly drag it across the inside edge of the lip to remove excess paint.
To neatly paint up to a line where two edges or colors meet, called "cutting in," use a trim brush with beveled bristles (the end of the brush resembles a chisel). Paint five or six strokes perpendicular to the edge of the ceiling or the wall. Next, smooth over these strokes with a single, long stroke, painting out from the corner first, then vertically. Where the wall and ceiling come together, use downward strokes on the wall first followed by smooth horizontal strokes.
On the ceiling itself, cut in strokes toward the center of the room, away from the wall. Then paint a smooth horizontal stroke on the ceiling that follows the direction of the wall. Even if you're using the same color of paint on adjoining surfaces, follow this method of cutting in with 2-inch-wide borders rather than just plopping a loaded brush directly into a corner. This will prevent drips, sags, and runs.
To cut in at a corner, paint out from the corner for five or six strokes.
�2006 Publications International, Ltd.
To cut in at a corner, paint out from the corner for five or six strokes, then smooth
over them with a single, long, smooth stroke.
Another cutting-in approach, beading, can practically eliminate the need to use masking tape to protect one painted area from another. Use a beveled trim brush with nice long bristles. Hold the brush so that your thumb is on one side of the metal ferrule and your fingers on the other. Press the brush lightly against the surface, then, as you move the brush, add just enough pressure to make the bristles bend away from the direction of your brushstroke. Keep the brush about 1⁄16 inch away from the other colored surface. The bent bristles and the pressure will release a fine bead of paint that will spread into the gap.
With both methods of cutting in, but especially when you're dealing with two colors, it's better to have a brush that's too dry than one that's too wet. This is detail work. To do it effectively, go slowly and cut in 4 or 5 inches at a time. It will seem tedious at first, but your speed and accuracy will improve with practice, and even one ordinary-size room will give you lots of practice.
Rollers
Working with a roller is even less exacting than working with a brush. Even a novice painter can get the feel of it in just a few minutes.
As with brushes, moisten the roller first with water for latex paint or the appropriate thinner for other types of paint. Roll out the excess moisture on a piece of scrap lumber or kraft paper or even on a paper grocery bag. Don't use newspaper because the roller may pick up the ink. Fill the well of the roller pan about half full, and set the roller into the middle of the well. Lift the roller and roll it down the slope of the pan, stopping just short of the well. Do this two or three times to allow the paint to work into the roller. Then, dip the roller into the well once more, and roll it on the slope until the pile is well saturated. You'll know immediately when you've overloaded the roller. It will drip en route to the wall and have a tendency to slide and smear instead of roll across the surface.
To load a roller, fill the well of the pan about half full and set the roller into the well.
�2006 Publications International, Ltd.
To load a roller, fill the well of the pan about half full and set the roller into the
well. Then lift the roller and roll it down the slope of the pan two or three times
to work paint into the roller.
The most effective method of painting with a roller is to paint 2-or 3-square-foot areas at a time. Roll the paint on in a zigzag pattern without lifting the roller from the wall, as if you're painting a large M, W, or backward N. Then, still without lifting the roller, fill in the blanks of the letters with more horizontal or vertical zigzag strokes. Finish the area with light strokes that start in the unpainted area and roll into the paint. At the end of the stroke, raise the roller slowly so it does not leave a mark. Go to the next unpainted area, and repeat the zigzag technique, ending it just below or next to the first painted patch. Finally, smooth the new application, and blend it into the previously finished area.
With a roller, begin by making an M, a backward N, or a W pattern about 3 feet square.
�2006 Publications International, Ltd.
With a roller, begin by making an M, a backward N, or a W pattern about 3 feet
square. Always start with an upstroke so paint won't run down the wall. Next,
fill in the pattern with crosswise strokes. You should be able to paint each
3-square-foot area with one dip of the roller.
Professional painters also suggest starting with a roller stroke that moves away from you. On walls, that means the first stroke should be up. If you roll down on the first stroke, the paint may puddle under the roller and run down the wall. In addition, be careful not to run the roller so rapidly across the wall that centrifugal force causes it to spray.
If you have a large indoor painting job, an airless sprayer is the best tool to use. We'll take a look at airless sprayers and how to use them safely in the next section.
As with brushes, moisten the roller first with water for latex paint or the appropriate thinner for other types of paint. Roll out the excess moisture on a piece of scrap lumber or kraft paper or even on a paper grocery bag. Don't use newspaper because the roller may pick up the ink. Fill the well of the roller pan about half full, and set the roller into the middle of the well. Lift the roller and roll it down the slope of the pan, stopping just short of the well. Do this two or three times to allow the paint to work into the roller. Then, dip the roller into the well once more, and roll it on the slope until the pile is well saturated. You'll know immediately when you've overloaded the roller. It will drip en route to the wall and have a tendency to slide and smear instead of roll across the surface.
To load a roller, fill the well of the pan about half full and set the roller into the well.
�2006 Publications International, Ltd.
To load a roller, fill the well of the pan about half full and set the roller into the
well. Then lift the roller and roll it down the slope of the pan two or three times
to work paint into the roller.
The most effective method of painting with a roller is to paint 2-or 3-square-foot areas at a time. Roll the paint on in a zigzag pattern without lifting the roller from the wall, as if you're painting a large M, W, or backward N. Then, still without lifting the roller, fill in the blanks of the letters with more horizontal or vertical zigzag strokes. Finish the area with light strokes that start in the unpainted area and roll into the paint. At the end of the stroke, raise the roller slowly so it does not leave a mark. Go to the next unpainted area, and repeat the zigzag technique, ending it just below or next to the first painted patch. Finally, smooth the new application, and blend it into the previously finished area.
With a roller, begin by making an M, a backward N, or a W pattern about 3 feet square.
�2006 Publications International, Ltd.
With a roller, begin by making an M, a backward N, or a W pattern about 3 feet
square. Always start with an upstroke so paint won't run down the wall. Next,
fill in the pattern with crosswise strokes. You should be able to paint each
3-square-foot area with one dip of the roller.
Professional painters also suggest starting with a roller stroke that moves away from you. On walls, that means the first stroke should be up. If you roll down on the first stroke, the paint may puddle under the roller and run down the wall. In addition, be careful not to run the roller so rapidly across the wall that centrifugal force causes it to spray.
If you have a large indoor painting job, an airless sprayer is the best tool to use. We'll take a look at airless sprayers and how to use them safely in the next section.
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